Narita Unagi Festival is here! Savoring Japanese eel culture amidst the aroma, but also facing the dilemma of conservation and trade.
TOKYO, JAPAN (MERXWIRE) – The annual “Narita Unagi Festival” will be held in Narita City, Chiba Prefecture from July 18, attracting many gourmets and tourists to taste the fragrant eel dishes, and stroll along the quaint Omotesando to experience the eel food culture that has been passed down from the Edo period to the present. However, behind this summer’s feast, the Japanese eel industry is also concerned about the pressure from international conservation policies.
Recently, the European Union formally proposed adding eels to the Appendix of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES, also known as the Washington Convention) to restrict their cross-border trade. Suppose the proposal is passed at the meeting of the contracting parties in late November this year. In that case, it will have a significant impact on the industrial chain in East Asia that relies on the trade of eel fry and kabayaki eel. Japan’s Minister of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries publicly expressed opposition to this last Friday and intends to urge other countries to oppose the proposal, as the resources of species such as Japanese eels are already fully protected.
The origin of Narita City and eels can be traced back to the Edo period. At that time, after visiting Naritasan Shinshoji Temple, believers would stop by Omotesando to taste freshly grilled eel rice, replenishing their physical strength and warding off fatigue. This custom continues to this day, making Narita the most representative eel capital in Japan. During the hottest season of summer every year, the Japanese also eat eels on the day known as the Midsummer Day of the Ox to replenish their energy and fight the heat. This eating habit originated in the Edo period and is attributed to the famous scholar Hiraga Gennai, who is said to have promoted it, eventually making it part of Japan’s summer poetry tradition.
During the Unagi Festival, long-established unagi restaurants in Narita City, such as Kawatoyo and Omiya, offer classic kabayaki eel dishes, with the most popular being the eel grilled with special sauce and binchotan charcoal. For those who prefer a lighter taste, shirataki (grilled on charcoal without sauce) can better highlight the sweetness of the eel itself. At the same time, innovations such as unagi sushi and tempura also add variety to the traditional flavor. During the festival, more than 100 restaurants, souvenir shops, and accommodation facilities will jointly hold point collection activities, which are expected to attract a large number of domestic and foreign tourists, making the scene lively.
However, as wild eel resources are decreasing, international concerns about the overfishing of eels are also increasing. Some scientists and conservation groups support the EU’s restriction proposal, believing that in the context of global resource tightening, strengthening international supervision is imperative. On the other hand, the domestic industry in Japan is concerned that if the import and export of eels are strictly restricted, it will deal a heavy blow to fishermen, manufacturers, the catering industry, and even local tourism, and will also affect the continuity of cultural activities, such as the Narita Eel Festival.
For Japan, eels are not only a delicacy on the table, but also carry significance in solar terms and hold a place in regional traditional culture. Today, facing the tension between international conservation pressure and local industry protection, Japanese society is compelled to confront a thorny issue. Finding a balance between ecological sustainability and food culture has become an important key.
